Eldorado Peak and Surrounding Peakds

Eldorado Peak and the surrounding peaks offer a wide array of climbing possibilities. There are numerous glaciers to travel as well as rocky peaks that jut out of the surrounding glaciers. The high bivy area is one of my favorites in the Cascades. With great views of Torment and Forbidden Peaks as well as the glaciers sloping down to Moraine Lake. The bivy area also host what I would consider the toilet with the best views in the mountain range.

From this high bivy spot, you have numerous possible objectives. The East Ridge of Eldorado is the classic and easiest option which cannot be missed. It offers glacial climbing leading to a knife edge snow ridge taking you to the summit. Eldorado also has other routes that involve more rock such as the West Arete, South Ridge, and North Ridge. You can also explore the Eldorado, Inspiration, or McAllister glaciers easily from the camp. You also have access to multiple peaks in the surrounding area such as Dorado Needle, Klawatti, Tempeh Towers, Early Morning Spire, and Austera Peak.

If you are looking for a trip that can offer a variety of objectives in a beautiful setting, look no further. Due to the variety of terrain, it is also a great location to develop your skills of glacier, snow, or rock climbing.