Forbidden Peak Climbs

Forbidden Peak is possibly one of the most popular peaks in the North Cascades and with good reason. The rock quality is good for alpine climbing, the setting in Boston Basin is unmatched, and it has climbs that are approachable for less experienced climbers.

The most popular routes follow each of the three ridges that converge at the summit. The most popular is the West Ridge which is one of the fifty classic climbs of North America. It is a fun route that maxes out at an approachable 5.6. Though easy in grade, it still comes with its own challenges to keep it engaging. The North Ridge is quite adventurous. It requires crossing multiple glaciers and crossing over ridges. This route requires a bivouac on route due to the more remote setting of the route. A popular way to climb the North Ridge is to cross all the way over the Forbidden Glacier to climb the Northwest Snow and Ice Field. Then for something a bit less remote but still getting away from the crowds, look no further than the East Ridge. it hosts multiple gendarmes that keep you wondering if you should go around or over them.

Climbing on Forbidden Peak is best in July through September. These climbs are done at a max 2:1 ratio.